What It’s Like to Run the Tokyo Marathon

So I just got back from Japan…

And I’m wondering if I’ll ever look at the world the same way again. It surpassed all my expectations, and I have a deep love for the country and for the Japanese. I have so much to share about my travels soon, but first I wanted to write about what brought me there in the first place.

The chance to run 26.2 miles through Tokyo!


5 Months Ago I Won A Lottery….

Not the kind where I won cash! But I did feel like a winner when I found out on October 3rd that I was selected in the drawing. Out of 30,000 people, I made it! And I took it as a sign that I was meant to go. That this was a once in a lifetime opportunity, that I just couldn’t pass up!

When I applied in early September I didn't think I really had a chance to win. I've entered many lotteries for marathons like New York and Chicago in the past, and I've never been selected. When I ran the New York Marathon in 2020 it was through the 9+1 program. And the only time I ran a half marathon I raised money for charity. And I share this to say that I understand the challenge it can be getting into a marathon.

Japan is the farthest race, and a new country I was personally dying to visit. So I applied on a whim. I have this goal that in my lifetime I’d like to run all the Abbott World Majors. These are the Big Six, which include London, Berlin, Chicago, Boston, New York, and Tokyo. Once you’ve completed them all you receive the coveted Six Star Medal.

When I ran the New York Marathon I had a great experience, and I hoped to run another marathon one day, but in all honesty, I didn’t know when.

I applied on September 2nd, and almost exactly a month later I received the email from the Tokyo Marathon foundation that I was selected. Once I shared the news, many people encouraged me to do it! Other runners who either ran the race before, or people who traveled to Japan in the past. It was so great to hear so many positive things. But there was still a lot to figure out, and I had to commit to a decision quickly! I had less than 3 weeks to confirm if I would run.

I decided I really wanted to go. Luckily, a few of my best friends were dying to travel to Japan as well and we decided LETS DO IT!! I couldn’t believe they were going to take this adventure with me to the other side of the world and cheer me on. So I signed myself up for a winter of training, learning just a tad of Japanese and planning out the details of our bucket list trip.

It was one of the best decisions I could have ever made. I didn't know what else would bring me to Japan, and I didn’t want to spend my life waiting.

This was a perfect excuse to take a trip across the world - 6,740 miles away. To see Tokyo for myself, and run that city.


More Reasons to Run

Can’t decide if you should run it? Here are some cool stats about the race, and why I was so excited to run 26.2 miles through Tokyo!

  • It’s a huge marathon. I was only one person, amongst 36,785 Finishers

  • It’s a mega city… but also the biggest city in the world

    • Tokyo is the most populated metropolitan area in the world, and is surprisingly much larger than New York City

  • There are over 37 million people who live in the Tokyo metro area

    • Even just the city proper has a population of 13.99 million people

  • A LOT of people wear costumes.. I saw many Pokémon characters, Anime, and people in funky hats. I passed by someone wearing a full Geisha outfit, with kimono and wooden sandals clacking against the ground. No joke

  • Because of Covid-19, the last 3 Tokyo Marathons were either cancelled or not open to any international runners

    • For that reason, it had more demand! This marathon marked the largest number of participants receiving their 6 star medal at any World Major, and they were all awarded a Guinness Book World Record Medal.


Preparing for the Race

There's so much that went into preparation for this marathon.

Not only was it my first time training through the winter, but it was the first that wasn’t local, and my first international race. I knew a lot of different preparation would be needed.

I’ll share more details in another post on training through cold weather, but I used a 16 week training plan from November through February. I did research on what I would need to know and how to pack everything I would possibly require into a suitcase. I think the thing I was most nervous about was not not having access to all of my gear, my regular food, or different clothing options.

I followed the plan, and I trained to the best of my ability at this time in my life. And I've never felt so good before. I was in the best shape I've been yet for racing. I was running faster, feeling stronger, and smarter.

With all of that said, running an international marathon on an unknown course in a foreign country is a completely different experience. I don’t think anything really prepares you for that. And that had a huge impact on how I felt the day of the race.


What to Pack

I packed my suitcase a week early. My plan was to remove as much anxiety as I could, and manage what I had control over. Let go of everything else.

I left for Japan on February 28th, giving myself time to arrive and adjust well before the race on March 5th. I had a few bumps in the road getting there, like a 4 hour delay in Detroit. I spent a while walking miles around the airport. But overall, I knew the travel would be long (almost a full day) so I embraced it. I tried to stay awake for most of the long haul flight in order to adjust to the time difference. I think I aced it! The flight was 14 hours from Detroit so I drugged myself sufficiently on the plane to sleep the first 3 hours in our afternoon and then remain awake for the rest of the overnight journey. Because I was landing at 9pm in Japan right in time for bed.

I checked a massive suitcase, and then brought a carry on and a duffel. I did not travel light. I wanted to bring everything I might need. Plus I packed cute outfits!

The only thing that I had to buy in Japan for the race was an additional USB cord in case I decided to throw it out, and a banana… because I couldn't take that in my bag. I wanted to feel safe and secure using everything I had trained in.

The only big variable was the weather. It looked like it was going to be strangely warm before I left. But it changed a lot so I had to pack a range of different choices. I landed on a hybrid outfit, that was not what I intended to wear originally. But it was pretty perfect for the day. A pair of Nike shorts with some pockets and then a very light, Nike windbreaker. I opted to not pack a belt like I ran with for the last marathon. I knew that the two pockets on the shorts could fit a few of my Maurten energy gels. I was able to fit a small portable charger in case my phone died, as well as a USB cord, and put my phone in my other pant pocket. Lastly, I packed the one day paper subway card given by the race so I could get around easily. Lastly, I picked a hotel that was RIGHT NEXT TO THE STARTING LINE, and it was the best decision ever. The Kimpton Shinjuku was fantastic, and a huge help in the days leading up to the race.

I was pretty prepared!

The biggest issues I was going to face were that I was recovering from a sinus cold and throat infection, my nose was running, and that I was sore (from all the sightseeing we did that week). We walked 6 - 11 miles each day, with over 20,000 steps the day before the race.

Part of it was out of my control, part of it was my own doing.. but how can you sit around a hotel all week when you’re in one of the coolest cities in the world!?

Now we get to the good part….


How It Started

Overall, I had a great experience running the Tokyo Marathon. I really felt incredible for the first 16 miles I would say.

And though I did face a few challenges, including a very long bathroom line before the start, and having my AirPods die with 10 miles to go, I knew that I could finish. But I wanted more than that.. I wanted to do great, and that feeling of pressure I created for myself was making me anxious.

The days leading up to the marathon I hadn’t been sleeping well for this reason, plus the serious jet lag, and the time 14 hour time difference. But even without a great sleep, I woke up that day and I felt ready run. I was well hydrated, and mentally prepared.

I prepared a VERY LARGE caffeinated sports drink for myself, ate some peanut butter toast with banana, and I left for the starting line at 7:45 am. (BTW What a gift compared to the 4:45 am departure I had for for New York!) It took me only 10 minutes to walk right to the center of the marathon village, but about 40 minutes walking around until I finally found my entry gate, cleared security, and got online for the bathroom by my corral. The race was starting at 9:10 am.

For the first time ever, I really had to pee. (sorry TMI but I’m human)

I got to the starting line with plenty of time to spare. But the corral was going to close with over 30 minutes to the start of the race. I had to decide whether to start at the back of the race if it closed, or with my corral who was more my pace, knowing that I would have to stop during it (and lose time).

Because this had never happened to me before I was very concerned about how much my time would be impacted. Though I did have to stop around three miles and wait on a brief line to use one of the traditional Japanese toilets that are sunken holes in the ground, it only wasted about three or four minutes using the restroom. It was more important that I did it quickly at the beginning, and chose a facility with no large line (because FYI I have heard horror stories about the bathrooms in Tokyo being hundreds of feet away from the course with long lines).


The Course

It looked so good on paper! Look at that difference in altitude?! Downhill to start? But it was actually harder than I thought…

I feel it’s only fair to give an honest review. I loved the race, but the course deceived me.

The Pro’s

  • It’s a flat course, no net gain elevation

  • There are so many beautiful landmarks along the route including temples and towers

  • Transportation makes it easy to navigate around for the fans - my friends saw me not once, not twice - but FOUR SEPARATE TIMES. That just can’t happen anywhere else!

  • You run through such cool parts of the city like Akihabara, and past the Tokyo Dome

The Con’s

  • The long stretches of out and backs (the last one was 6 KM’s each way 🤮)

  • Tight corners and hairpin turns that slow you down

  • Rare, but periods of congestion on the course where people bump into one another

One of the most interesting things to me about the Tokyo Marathon was that the course was very flat. I assumed that this would be a much easier race than let's say New York. Not only was I more familiar with New York's course, though, I also had trained on New York's course for Japan. I was used to higher elevation, and I knew that I could gain some time in Tokyo. However, I did not account for all of the out and backs along the course that I would be facing.

The course took me into many different neighborhoods and gave me a great chance to see so much of the city. It also purposefully brings you past some of the greatest landmarks in Tokyo.

But I now have a fear of courses like this, where you run miles out one way, and then turn around to repeat that same distance. I don’t like seeing where I’m going. It was mentally exhausting. Especially watching the looks on the faces of the people who were running back more fatigued. I like the unknown better.


How It Was Going

It was so much to take in, almost overwhelming! Though I felt focused on the goal, I was really enjoying all of the sites I was seeing along the way, and beaming every time I got to see my people. I screamed for the elite runners and elite wheelchair athletes who passed by me. I saw beautiful temples, huge towers, and a sea of people along the course. I took pictures, and I posed for a lot of the cameras like the TOTAL HAM I AM.

Even though the crowd was not nearly as loud as New York, you could see in the smiling eyes of all the Japanese people that they were excited to be watching this spectacle. I was feeling wonderful for a long time and running faster than I had even planned to. I wanted to run a smart race though, so I chose to slow down to feel a little bit more comfortable and be able to go for for a great time.


How It Went ( & the not so Photo Finish)

I’ll be honest… those last 4 miles hurt.

Overall, my goal was to run the marathon in under 3 hours and 45 minutes, and I was on track to do something under 3 hours and 50 minutes. But within my last four miles, I definitely felt all of the soreness starting to hit me, and the fatigue. I was slowing down far beyond nine minute miles to about 10 minute miles.

I made some big mistakes. I only packed three energy gels, and I should have packed four gels. I ate my three gels within the first 20 miles and I really needed more juice at the end. In a moment of desperation, I actually ate something random along the course by one of the last food and water stops.

Found out that it was a glucose tablet, but it made me feel awful. I've never had a total abdominal cramp so badly while I was running before. That really slowed me down in speed for the last few miles. It wasn't until after I finished the race about 20 minutes later that my stomach was able to actually relax and then I could really talk, breathe, and walk normally. I definitely regret having tried or tested anything unknown on the course, because I know better than that. You can’t assume you’ll find a banana when you need one.


Key takeaways and tips:

  • Despite my lack of sleep and my soreness, I had a great run!! Adrenaline is a powerful energizer

  • Always pack more gels that day then you’ll even need!

  • Bring your AIRPOD CHARGING CASE and know that the crowd is quiet so you’ll depend more on music.

  • You don’t need to wear your name, no one shouted mine (But in the US this is huge!)

  • Test the food along the course beforehand (I tried Pocari Sweat before, I love it)

  • But don’t eat unknown food or things you haven’t tested

  • It’s ok to stop if you need to (but look for Western toilets)

  • If you REALLY REALLY care about your time, save your energy. (I did a lot of waving, taking pictures, and texting LOL)

Dead inside but ~ smiles ~


Results

I did not PR… but I came within 50 seconds of my personal record set at the New York City Marathon in 2021. I’m nothing if not consistent!

But seriously, results are not everything. I had to remind myself this in the days that followed the race repeatedly. I traveled halfway around the world, and I still finished in the top 30% of all runners, male or female.

The one stat I’m most proud of is that I placed in the top 20% within my category of female runners.

But…

if a picture said 1,000 words. I finished New York smiling. I couldn’t even muster the energy for a smile in Tokyo. ! I was holding back emotions….

But in the end, it doesn’t matter how I finished, just that I did.

My friends were waiting for me just beyond the finish line. Here’s what you should know for meeting up with people after the race:

  • It’s about a half a mile walk from the finish line to busses / waiting area

  • On the way, you’ll walk past health services tents if you need help

  • If you sit or collapse, they will come check on you

  • Volunteers will give you your finisher medal along the way

  • You’ll be given something warm (it changes each year but this year it was like a warm poncho, in 2019 it was a towel)

    • You’ll get a foil blanket to prevent heat loss! This kept me warm enough on the journey home

  • You’ll receive a bag with water, and some food (banana, protein bar, etc)

  • As a reminder, you don’t finish the race near the starting line, and typically some transportation will be required

  • I didn’t pay for baggage check for this marathon because I knew the weather was manageable. But if it’s really cold, here are my thoughts:

    • If you’re alone, it’s a good idea. Pack a portable charger and usb cord, and something warm

    • If you have friends/family meeting you, have them bring it to the finish line!

My friends are literally heroes. When I finished I had a cramp in my abdomen and felt horrible for 10 minutes - I was barely able to walk. They sat with me, probably smelly and mute, and massaged my legs. They shared all about their day. Once I felt fine again we made our journey back to the hotel.


Thinking About It? Just Do It

I can’t say enough how special this whole experience was - both the race itself and getting to travel through Japan. It was an incredible, and unforgettable, bucket list trip.

If you have the opportunity, take the plunge and do it.

And best of all, I earned another Star!

Arigato, Japan!

I’m so grateful. We met the kindest people, had the most amazing food, felt a feeling of safety and respect that is unmatched, and witnessed so much innovation and efficiency.

More to come on my travels through Japan!! And I hope this was helpful to anyone who is considering running the Tokyo Marathon in the future.

Thanks for reading :)

Xx

Gab


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