5 Day Ireland Roadtrip

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Planning an Irish Adventure

Last year I got to take an unbelievable trip across Ireland with Ryan. We tried to cover as much ground as we could in the 5 days that we had. We traveled to a few different areas of the country… starting in Dublin on the east, to the southern coast, and west along the Wild Atlantic Way, ending our trip in Shannon. It was one of my favorite travel experiences I’ve had so far, and if Ireland isn’t currently on your bucket list I hope it is after reading this and feeling my excitement!

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This trip to Ireland was also really important to me because it was the first time that Ryan and I traveled to Europe together, and his first European visit ever! Big deal given how much I love it across the pond!

I’ve always heard amazing things about Ireland, and the pictures looked incredible, so it had been on my bucket list for a while. I had visions of myself driving through the green countryside on a back road, passing by herds of sheep, jamming to Castle on the Hill by Ed Sheeran.

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It took some convincing to get Ryan to finally commit. He’s never been as excited about traveling and tourism as I have, but given that he’s actually Irish (We’ll be McKenna’s for God’s sake) he was down to pay a visit to his “brethren” and so I began planning. I hoped if I did it right, he’d have a great time and want to come back to Europe more in the future.

If you’re wondering if he loved it, he left already planning his return. Safe to say this trip was a hit!

Doonagore Castle on the Wild Atlantic Way, little fort by Doolin

Doonagore Castle on the Wild Atlantic Way, little fort by Doolin

So this time last year I was drinking pints and road-tripping through Ireland…

Hard to believe, as it feels like a lifetime ago! But my happy memories of the experience carried me through weeks of quarantine in a tiny one-bedroom apartment and for that, I’m very grateful.

The timing of our trip could not have been more perfect. We left on February 27th and we came back on March 3rd, just before the global pandemic became a real threat in the US and international travel was restricted.

As we were leaving, the safe little island of Ireland was even preparing for impact. We didn’t know the place we had just left, the country we fell in love with, was about to become a very different place!

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Where We Traveled

We started our trip by flying into Dublin’s International Airport. We took an overnight flight on Thursday and slept as much as possible so that we could wake up ready to enjoy a full day of exploring. We had a big itinerary ahead of us!

  • Day 1: Dublin

  • Day 2: Dublin

  • Day 3: Blarney, Cork, Cobh

  • Day 4: Wild Atlantic Way, Cliffs of Moher, Doolin

  • Day 5: Dromoland Castle, Shannon

If you are looking to make the most of your time there, I suggest departing from the other side of the country. You spend much less time traveling across the country to return the car! There are so many different routes to take, but this itinerary is structured so that you can see quite a lot in a very short amount of time.

Weather & Dressing for The Trip

We didn’t plan this trip around the weather. If anything we were trying to find an affordable time to go in the off-season when work wasn’t too busy!

February in the Northern Hemisphere? I was ready for cold, rain, maybe even snow. Given it was Ireland I was expecting mostly cloud coverage too! I packed layers so that I could stay dry and warm no matter what the weather!

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But we experienced what felt like a few different seasons in just a few days! And lucky us, we got a lot of sunshine and blue skies too! Did we find some four-leaf clovers or something? The nice weather was great for spending time outside.

The biggest piece of advice other than packing layers is DON’T let the weather hold you back from doing anything you want to do, other than maybe jumping in the ocean! We had just as much fun running in the rain from pub to pub in Dublin as we did eating in a sun-drenched park at Blarney Castle.

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Packing List & Key Pieces

Raincoat: I found this great durable jacket from Lord & Taylor on sale just before my trip. I wore it every day and could add layers underneath. French Connection no longer sells it but I found a similar one here.

Boots: Fortunate that I had my LL Bean Boots with me on this trip. They were perfect for trekking through the countryside. I packed a few different pairs of shoes for walking around the city, dressing up for dinner, and doing exercise. I typically don’t bring so many options but they all came in handy on this vacation!


How We Traveled

There are a few different options for how to get around Ireland. We wanted the independence to make our own route, drive when we want, and stop whenever we might need to. So rather than join a company tour group we rented a car from Hertz and created our own itinerary! All we had to do was pick up the car in Dublin, and learn how to drive a vehicle on the wrong side of the road and the wrong side of the car. No biggie!

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This probably would have been a little nerve-wracking for me, but Ryan was such a pro! He did great driving on the major motorways and the tiny back roads. Even with a hell of a hangover on the first day, he was a great sport and we ended up having so much fun. One of my favorite parts of this Ireland trip was spent in the car together, singing along to our favorite songs and taking in the beautiful scenery.

Though it cost a bit more to drop the rental off at a different location than where we picked it up, it was definitely worth it because of how much time we saved. We used just under one tank of gas, so we filled up before arriving at the airport where we could drop the car off. Then we walked right into the airport to head home!

So. easy.

We did not need a car in Dublin so we picked that up on our way out of the city. Before that, we took an airport bus to the hotel, then got around by walking and a few Ubers! It was easy to navigate, but having friends there to guide us was also so helpful!

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Where We Stayed

I did quite a bit of research after we booked this trip, and as always, got a few suggestions from people who have visited Ireland before or know it well! There were a lot of different hotel options to choose from, so it was really helpful to have friends give their own recommendations. We ended up booking two of the three hotels based on that! So here is where we stayed.

  • The Iveagh Garden Hotel (Dublin): This hotel was wonderful! Beautifully renovated, young and modern. It’s located in a central area of the city by St Stephen’s Green, and very reasonably priced! We paid $155/night. The room was big, comfortable, and gorgeous. I’d recommend staying here!

  • The Commodore Hotel (Cobh): This was an older historic hotel located right on the sea. A little bit outdated, but there were not many options in Cobh! We were happy we stayed here though, especially after that delicious traditional Irish breakfast. We paid $100/night.

  • Dromoland Castle (County Clare): HIGHLY RECOMMEND! I can not say enough wonderful things about this incredible hotel. With its gorgeous accommodations, outstanding service, delicious meals and dining, and absolutely stunning grounds! We checked in on a Monday and so the hotel was unusually empty. It felt like we had a castle to ourselves! When we arrived the staff upgraded us to a better room, and the stay came with an incredible breakfast buffet.

    The location isn’t very close to points of interest, but it’s conveniently between the Cliffs of Moher and Shannon airport! Bit of a splurge at $310/night, but for the experience we had, and the room upgrade, it was completely worth it.

    It was maybe the coolest lodging I’ve ever experienced, and Ryan and I still talk about it all the time.

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Day 1 - Exploring Dublin

We got lucky and were able to check-in to our hotel hours early. Our flight landed around 9 am, and we were able to nap, shower, change clothes, and get ready for a day of exploring Dublin by 11:30 am! The first stop on our tour was the Trinity Library.

The Trinity College Campus

The Trinity College Campus

Trinity College Library

Pictures really do not do this incredible collection at the Trinity Library justice.

International tourists visit mainly because it’s home to the original Book of Kells, a beautifully decorated book from 384 AD. It’s protected in a glass case, ancient, and cool to see something so old in person.

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The bookshelves in this library seem to tower stories above you, especially seeing it for the first time when walking up the staircase into the room.

It’s pretty breathtaking and reminds me of the library in Beauty and the Beast that I always wanted to have. Anyone else love the idea of scaling a ladder to grab your next novel? We purchased the tickets in advance and spent about 20 minutes wandering around. We were glad we paid a visit.

After the library tour, we met up with our friend Briana (hi Bri!!) who has lived in Dublin for the past few years! We couldn’t wait to see a bit of her life there - and lucky for us we got to get a tour from a local!

Our next plans were to tour the Guinness Factory. So Bri plotted our walk there, with sights to see along the way and pubs to stop at for a drink.

Guinness Factory

You can’t go to Dublin and not visit the famous Guinness factory. We bought tickets in advance and were debating paying for a guided tour, but luckily for us, Bri had visited many times and gave us a way better tour! It was cool to learn about the family history, the creation process, and I particularly loved seeing all the old advertisements they have run over the years.

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When you get to the end of the tour, you can walk up to the observatory on the top floor, and can enjoy a free pint of Guinness overlooking the city skyline! Some of the best views of Dublin.

Shopping at Powerscourt Townhouse Centre

This was a great recommendation from Bri that I hadn’t really come across when looking into Dublin before the trip. It’s essentially a shopping mall set inside a Georgian mansion right in the center of the city.

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Powerscourt Centre used to be home to a wealthy Viscount but now has a ton of fashion, jewelry, and art boutiques as well as indoor dining! I loved the beautiful architecture and design, and the space is full of light.

So if you’re looking to buy something to bring home that’s a bit cooler than a traditional souvenir, this is a great place to go!

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Temple Bar

I know it’s a tourist trap, but I had to stop by Temple Bar to take a peek and see what all the fuss is about! This area of Temple Bar is right next to the River Liffey and has tons of fun, crowded pubs playing live music.

The Temple Bar is no exception, it’s huge and has a nice courtyard. But the drinks are a bit more pricey since so many tourists flock here.

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Other Sites & Attractions in Dublin

Here are a few other things to do in Dublin. We did most of these, except for the Jameson Distillery and Aviva Stadium.

  • Grafton Street for Shopping

  • Check out St. Patricks Church

  • Tour the Jameson Distillery

  • Watch a soccer or rugby match at Aviva Stadium

Cross the River Liffey on the Ha’Penny Bridge

Cross the River Liffey on the Ha’Penny Bridge

Pose with the Molly Malone Statue

Pose with the Molly Malone Statue

Check out Dublin Castle, which is located right in the city center. You just don’t get this in the States!

Check out Dublin Castle, which is located right in the city center. You just don’t get this in the States!

Relax in the Park at St Stephen’s Green

Relax in the Park at St Stephen’s Green

Dublin Bar + Pub Crawl Part 1

We spent the rest of the day walking around, stopping in tons of different bars and pubs to get a drink or bite to eat. Here were a few of the places we went to that I recommend too!

  • Brazen Head - Ireland’s oldest pub, it’s been around since 1198! Highly recommend hanging out here.

  • Sheehan’s Pub - had a delicious toastie here!

Our last bar of the day was Cafe en Seine, a HUGE bar and event space, we ended the night here with some great cocktails!

Dinner

By the end of the day we were a bit drunk, exhausted from jet lag, and pretty hungry. So our friends took us to one of their favorite spots for a burger, Bunsen! It was so delicious and hit the spot.

We went home full and happy!


Day 2 - Phoenix Park & Pubs

We started the next day by getting some brunch in Dublin at a place called Roberta’s.

Delicious food and cocktails, and such a pretty space especially when the sun is shining through the glass atrium ceiling.

Bri and Niall picked us up mid-day and took us somewhere special… a true local Dublin experience. Feeding the deer in Phoenix Park!!

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Pheonix Park is a massive enclosed park in Dublin. It was a little chilly out there, but the whole experience was hysterical - and unique! Can’t say I’ve ever come that close to an animal in the wild before! This activity may not be encouraged by the board of tourism, but these deer are used to being around people and if they see you have some apples they come running like bee’s on honey. What a giggly day.

After the deer experience, we drove around the park a little more, passing by the Phoenix monument, the large Wellington testimonial statue, and making a visit to Farmleigh house. The latter is one of the beautiful mansions on the property and previously home to the Prime Minister.

Since Phoenix Park is so big driving was the most efficient method, but you could also explore by bike or a Segway tour.

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Dublin Bar + Pub Crawl Part 2

After spending time outdoors we were cold and looking for a cozy place to warm ourselves up!

First stop, our friends took us to a gorgeous hotel with a great restaurant and bar, called House. We sipped some Hot Toddy’s to get us feeling toasty again. This looked like a great spot to get brunch too!

From there we walked to O’Donoghues pub to have another drink and listen to some live music. It was lively and crowded, the music was great, and we had such a blast. Some of Bri’s friends joined us too!

O’Donoghues

O’Donoghues

We were starving and decided to break for a delicious pizza dinner at The Well. It’s a huge bar and cafe serving food until late.

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After dinner, we continued the bar tour to The Jar and joined forces with a very drunk bachelorette party.

Making our way back to the hotel we stopped by the famous Whelan’s Pub to catch a live performance! I was dying to check out this spot because it’s where a few scenes take place in P.S I Love You. I was having the time of my life trying to get close to the band on stage. So much fun.

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The last stop was at Ryan’s of Camden Street before heading back to our hotel bar (Iveagh) called Elle’s Bar for a nightcap with Bri and Niall. REALLY good cocktails and the perfect end to our fun weekend. We were sad to say goodbye to our friends, but excited for the next leg of our adventure!

Dublin gave us the warmest welcome to Ireland, and was the perfect place to kick off our trip! Highly recommend starting off there as well.

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Other Restaurant & Bars in Dublin

  • The Grayson: Gorgeous restaurant and bar in a townhome by Stephen’s Green

  • Isabelle’s: Same restaurant group as The Grayson (Press Up - also oversees Roberta’s) and seems just as outstanding with a gorgeous design, decor, and menu.

  • Copper Face Jack’s: This nightclub was located across the street from our hotel and was ragingggg at all hours. This is one of the more popular clubs in the city.

  • Dawson’s Pub: Smallest pub - ever?!

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Day 3 - Driving to Cobh

On Day 3 we picked up the car we rented from Hertz and drove south, with about a 3-hour drive ahead of us. We were feeling deathly hungover so we stopped by a specialty grocery store before we departed to get coffee and snacks for our drive. Then we hit the road! We road the M7 to the M8.

Again, if it’s not confusing enough to be driving in a foreign country you’ve never been to before... you’re also driving on the wrong side of the road, and the wrong side of the car. What a thrill!

Our destination was Blarney, but if you are looking to split up the trip a good place to stop for lunch and stretch your legs is in the town of Kilkenny!

That route takes a little longer, so if you want to stay more direct on the M8, then an even better excursion is to the medieval Rock of Cashel.

Visiting Blarney Castle

After several hours we arrived at our first stop on our road trip Blarney Castle, which has been standing for over 600 years! This is a top tourist attraction in Ireland, and the country has made it a worthwhile attraction by maintaining the beautiful property and gardens, building a restaurant, and offering a great tourist center stocked with souvenirs.

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We bought tickets when we arrived, but you can also buy them in advance! This got us access to tour the castle from the lower level dungeon, through the various rooms, and up the steep stairs to see the Blarney Stone! Afterward, we walked through the beautiful gardens and explored the gardens and grounds.

Before we left we had a nice lunch by the river.

Some say the Blarney Stone bestows a gift to those who kiss it, the gift of eloquence. Others call it “the gift of gab” which I personally favor. I already can’t shut up so I didn’t have to worry about bending backward over a 100-foot drop to receive this gift! Lucky me.

But Ryan was brave and he kissed the Blarney Stone! Honestly, I’m scared of heights and couldn’t bring myself to do it. But still very cool!

But Ryan was brave and he kissed the Blarney Stone! Honestly, I’m scared of heights and couldn’t bring myself to do it. But still very cool!

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Blarney Woolen Mills

I couldn’t wait to check out these shops in Blarney! It was nice to have another local stop before getting back on the road. They had amazing products all made and sourced locally, like wool sweaters.

Then we continued our journey through Cork and onto the small seaside town of Cobh. We drove through the city center of Cork but we decided not to pick a different place to stay based on things we had heard from friends.

If you’re looking to stay in Cork though, I recommend staying at the gorgeous Hayfield Manor on the outskirts of the city. This 5-star luxury hotel would definitely make it worth visiting!

Arriving in Cobh

Driving into Cobh you could smell the sea before you saw the water. It was so refreshing and exciting. We arrived and immediately realized how small this colorful village really was! One lane to drive in and one lane to drive out. After we checked into the Commodore hotel, we took a walk around town.

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We explored the shops in the colorful buildings of the commercial district and walked up to the top of the hill to see the church.

We ended the night by having dinner at the Titanic Bar & Grill restaurant and crawling into bed by 8pm. It was perfect.

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Day 4 - Driving the Wild Atlantic Way

We woke up to spend the sunny morning in beautiful Cobh. We felt refreshed and ready to take on a pretty big day ahead of us!

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We took a walk around town again, before enjoying an epic Irish breakfast at the hotel overlooking the water. I definitely could do without all the meats, but MY GOODNESS, THE SCONES. THE SODA BREAD. The pastries were insane.

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The Titanic Experience Museum

My friend recommended this Titanic Experience museum and we decided to buy tickets and check it out! Cobh is actually famous for being the last port of call for the Titanic before it sank on its voyage to America in 1912. The museum is located in the old White Star Line ticket office where 8 lucky individuals disembarked here at Queenstown and 128 Irish passengers, unfortunately, boarded the Titanic.

The guide was knowledgeable and provided interesting information and insight. I’m a huge fan of the Titanic movies (Kate&Leo4ever) and the sad history of this tragedy, so I like this kind of museum more than an art gallery. Ryan was really into it too! I definitely recommend a stop here if you’re staying in Cork and a fan of the Titanic.

After the tour, we checked out and grabbed a coffee at a cute cafe in town before hopping back in the car for our next destination: Dromoland Castle.

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Driving to County Shannon

The drive to Dromoland Castle was stunning. The route is unbelievably scenic and fairly easy to navigate. I was surprised by the number of backroads we were directed to take through small colorful villages, really getting a sense of the small towns along the way.

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We drove past farms with the greenest grass we had ever seen, animals grazing in the sunshine under blue skies, with snowy mountain tops in the distance.

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It made me wish we were spending more time in nature. The journey to get there was almost as good as the destination we’d be going to!

Arriving at Dromoland Castle

On our last night in Ireland, we decided to splurge and experience a unique European experience, lodging in a castle! A few people had recommended that we stay at Dromoland Castle, and we decided it was a great way to end the trip.

Immediately as you enter the property, driving beyond the gates and past the rolling green hills of the golf course, you feel an impressive sense of luxury. I knew pulling up to the towering stone castle that we were in for the experience of a lifetime. It was the perfect place to stay given that it was on the way to the Cliffs of Moher, and close to Shannon airport.

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There are several other castle hotels in Ireland including Ashford Castle in County Mayo, which would be a great place to stay if you’re planning to stop in Galway on your trip! But for our short vacation, staying at Dromoland Castle worked out really well.

Braving the storm at the Cliffs of Moher

After checking-in to the hotel, we got back on the road to see the Cliffs of Moher on the coast. If you don’t recognize the name, these are the cliffs featured in movies like Princess Bride and Harry Potter.

As soon as we hit the highway clouds started to cover the sky. When we pulled into the visitor's parking lot the wind began picking up and a slight drizzle started. So we pulled up our hoods and started walking over. Within just a few minutes this little shower turned into a full-on, gale-force wind downpour! We were soaked by the time we made it to the gift shop to wait for the weather to clear up, but we figured getting over to the cliffs would be impossible and it would be safer to go home.

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Right before we left, the rain stopped and there was a brief reprieve from the storm. So we took the opportunity as a sign and hustled to the cliffs. We had just enough time to take some pictures and explore the coastline. The sun even peaked out for a few minutes, which gave us the most glorious view. But soon enough the wind picked up again and walking the cliffs would be too dangerous so we cut our time there short.

Given the conditions, we were SO glad we were able to see what many consider one of the natural wonders of the world! I had seen so many photos over the years but it’s even more incredible in person. The scale of these cliffs is so massive, we were awe-struck.

Such an incredible thing to check off the bucket list!

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Stopping for a Meal in Doolin

The road you take to Cliffs of Moher is referred to as the Wild Atlantic Way. It’s a beautiful drive along the entire western coastline of Ireland from County Cork to County Donegal where there are over 15 signature points. It’s an attraction of Ireland in itself, but because of the length of our trip, this was the most exposure we were able to have of the drive. But we were loving this scenic route and decided to take it further north to the nearby town of Doolin.

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You can access this adorable seaside village on the Cliffs of Moher cliff walk path as well. The town is small, cozy, and colorful, perched right over the water.

We stopped at a buzzing restaurant called Gus O’Connors Pub. This was a quintessential Irish pub with a band playing live music, customers Irish dancing to the songs, and a friendly crowd mixed of locals and some tourists like us.

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We hadn’t eaten all day and we were starving! We enjoyed a meal of fish & chips and some Irish beef stew while listening to the music and taking in this surreal environment. It was the perfect last pub to experience on our trip!

Dinner at the Earl of Thomand Restaurant, Dromoland Castle

After our journey back from the coast, we spent some time relaxing in the room before getting ready for our fancy night in. We had reservations at the Earl of Thomand, which is Dromoland Castle’s flagship fine-dining restaurant.

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It was our favorite meal of the trip, but possibly one of the nicest dining experiences I’ve ever had as well. Every detail was impeccable from the candle-lit room and white table cloths to the amazing service, and the outstanding locally curated menu. The castle was extremely empty on this Monday evening, so we felt as if we were dining semi-privately. It was such a treat!

The meal started with warm bread, foi gras, and a delicious cheese plate.

I had the beef with an amazing half bottle of Beaujolais, and Ryan had the venison with some old fashioned’s. It was a splurge, but when in Rome!

I had the beef with an amazing half bottle of Beaujolais, and Ryan had the venison with some old fashioned’s. It was a splurge, but when in Rome!

After our meal, we grabbed some drinks at the cocktail bar at the hotel, where we chatted with the friendly bartender. Turns out he had once worked in New York, in a bar right down the street from where we live! We also met another couple staying at the hotel from the US, and had a really fun time hanging out there.

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We then spent about an hour wandering around the hotel with our drinks in hand, taking photos of ourselves in front of sculptures and artwork. We just couldn’t believe that we were staying somewhere this nice and fancy. It felt like a joke, or that we had somehow scammed the system! We couldn’t stop laughing.

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It was almost 1am by the time we crawled into bed!


Day 5 - Dromoland Castle & Departing from Shannon

In the morning we woke early and enjoyed the most insane breakfast buffet at the Earl of Thomand. This is complimentary if you are a guest at the hotel! Such a nice perk when you are paying a bit more for a room.

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Once we were caffeinated we set out to explore the 450 acres property.

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There are tons of other activities to do at Dromoland Castle such as golf, archery, clay shooting, and taking a hawk walk! Imagine a real HAWK sitting on your hand? We got to see this and it was pretty cool (but scary!)

For exercise, there is biking, hiking, horseback riding, tennis, and a fitness center.

Dromoland encourages its guests to get outdoors and experience it all - they even put some Barbour boots by the door so that you can get out there no matter the weather! I thought that was a nice touch.

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Bike riding around Dromoland

We grabbed some of the bikes offered for guests at the hotel and took a really great ride around the property. It was honestly a rigorous workout that we weren’t expecting! The grounds are so gorgeous, and it was the perfect morning activity.

There are lakes, tennis courts, a driving range, and so many other places to stop by. We had maps but ended up exploring without them, mostly because not knowing what we would stumble on was so fun. We kept finding secret gardens along the way.

For those looking to relax there is a beautiful indoor pool and hot tub, sauna, and spa at Dromoland where you can be pampered all day. Before we left we stopped by the shops and golf center at the property to get some souvenirs.

We really didn’t want to check out of Dromoland, but Ryan and I told ourselves we’d get back there one day.

Our trip was coming to an end! That afternoon we departed from Shannon airport in the afternoon and arrived before nightfall in New York.


I could probably write several more posts on this topic…

But I think this guide is already long enough :)

One last note is that there are so many different cities and sites to see and an overwhelming number of options to choose from when planning a road trip in Ireland! If we had more time to spend there I would have preferred to do more of a full loop around the country, which looks something like this!

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Here are just some of the places I would definitely add to a future Ireland visit!

  • Galway

  • Ashford Castle

  • Connemara

  • Ring of Kerry

  • Dingle

  • Kinsale

  • Waterford

There is always next time!


Europe on a Budget

This trip was planned as efficiently as we could, and we ended up being able to save a lot of money because of how we planned it.

Flights roundtrip through Dublin are less expensive, but we took advantage of a great deal flying from JFK to Dublin, and Shannon to JFK all for $580.

The rental car was $148 in total for 3 days. And all of the hotels came to $719 for 4 nights.

RECAP! All in total we spent $1,040 per person on this trip. For a European vacation, including a luxury hotel, I would say that’s pretty good!

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We had an incredible time vacationing in Ireland, and I’m so glad we went in February before it was too late. This whole experience taught me the value of taking the plunge and booking that trip you dream about. Because sometimes when you wait for the perfect moment, it sadly doesn’t come.

Life is too short to wait!

SO, are you ready to plan your trip when travel opens again? If so, I’d love to help you layout your plans, so reach out with questions!

As the Irish say, THANKS A MILLION!

Xx Gab

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